@BaezoN you must update now the thread, don´t be shameful!
Beiträge von Manu_BTS
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Going back to the thread!
During this time, I made a lot of progress with the car.
I replaced two wheel hubs due a failure in warranty (about two months of use).
Also made some adjustments in the ECU tune... I had some overboost spikes (less than 0.1bar) and I had to correct it (dynoplot attached)
Now I have a constant 1.35bar, with 0,85-0,83 lambda at torqueband and 0,78 lambda at end powerband with good stable timing. I think the power is good with that pressure to keep my rods in their place
dyno.JPGThree weeks ago I installed the PQ25 front subframe with new Superpro caster bushes and Meyle HD axials and steering joints.
subframe.jpg
The gain in camber and caster was amazing, but not so much the wheel clearancecamber.jpgcaster.jpgclearance.jpg
After the aligment we get the following specs:Don´t pay attention at rear axle specs, EZShim are deformed
For last, with that mods I was experimenting so much wheel friction with the bumper and side wheel arch in heavy roads, so was time to experimenting:
bumper 1.jpgbumper 2.jpgbumper 3.jpg
All I needed to do was cut the inner corner of the bumper a little bit and the wheel arch and made a new one hole for the bolt and the job it´s done.
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Believe me, the modern Bosch 630cc injectors work pretty well thanks to their 12 hole spray pattern. Really smooth idle and enough flow up to 400hp with 3bar fpr.
Externer Inhalt www.youtube.comInhalte von externen Seiten werden ohne Ihre Zustimmung nicht automatisch geladen und angezeigt.Durch die Aktivierung der externen Inhalte erklären Sie sich damit einverstanden, dass personenbezogene Daten an Drittplattformen übermittelt werden. Mehr Informationen dazu haben wir in unserer Datenschutzerklärung zur Verfügung gestellt.You're right, hybrid turbos can't hold much boost in higher rpm's due to egt's, but we need "stock look" for TUV
I'll test a K03 hybrid with K04-064 turbine and compressor wheel soon, hopefully it will push up to 220g/s through the engine without too high boost and egt's.My bosch 550cc also have 12 holes spray pattern, I have a good idle and fuel adaptations/latencies.
Seems good that hybrid turbo, keep me updated about it.Going back to the exhaust thread, as you said, FMS exahust are crap.. first silencer has 57mm diameter inlet conection pipe and 57mm inside diameter silencer
The rest of the pipes have 63mm diameter, but the back silencer also reduces to 57mm inside diameterMy happines is gone now... maybe I assemble it to pass the TUV and modify it in the future to a real 63mm inside diameter silencers, I think is the best option....424CD3C4-F5C9-492C-9E9F-899B2A05CAA5.jpeg26CBBCEA-94E8-4A43-86C4-A791BA7E647D.jpeg20A45C91-922C-4CB2-B7CE-7822987BAC01.jpeg
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A friend of me with Ibiza 6L Cupra 1.8T has 3" downpipe with HJS cat and FMS exhaust, too.
We fittet 80mm MAF, 630ccm Bosch injectors and a K03 hybrid turbo with K04-023 turbine.
It makes 200g/s air mass @ 6200 rpm up to rev limiter @ 7200 rpm.
So, for ~260hp the FMS exhaust seems to be ok, but for your turbo it might be to small.FMS partnumbers plates on other exhaust system is also an often used method of TUV "legislation" here in germany
Nice setup! I go to a K04-064 due to the high hybrid turbos EGTs, I prefer a bigger turbo with a "low boost profile" and lower EGTs than a hybrid one, I'm a bit skeptical about reliability of hybrid turbos.
I´m thinking it´s too much flow injectors for this setup, with the Bosch 550cc and a high flow fuel pump is enough in my opinion.
At the moment, i´m boosting 1.3bar @ torque rpm band, and increases at 1.5bar @ 5700 rpm to rev limit getting 230-240g/s maf readings.
We will see if FMS is enough for my setup or I need to come back to my actual exahust with the "trick"... hahahahaMaybe I talk to you for more goodies...
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Haha no problem, in fact I was the one who responed, because she did not understand your question correctly
Also there are many guys writing to her. I understand that, not too many girls love and drive a 1.8T + do not look like a trashcanSo if I understood it correctly - you want to buy that FMS stuff, get your spainsh TUV and remove it again?
Hahahahaha here in Spain is more common that case in some girls, but it’s a little percent of that.
In fact, I bought a FMS exahust, but reading your opinion of this brand I was scared, so, if this exahust turns out to be a garbage, the next step will be to turn back to my actual exahust (doesn’t have TUV legislation) welding on it, the same partnumbers plates as FMS to forget the headaches in the future.
I hope you understood what I meant, it’s a crazy idea.
Thanks for your answer in Instagram hahaha
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Haha now I get it ...
you are the one who wrote to my girlfriend on Instagram and asked about her exhaust system
Hahahaha yes because she’s the only people that I know has a “legal” turboback exahust there (German laws are similar to spanish ones, some of them)
She told me, she has Blueflame one, the problem comes with the closing of Blueflame, so talking with another friend that lives in Munich, tell me to take a look at FMS exahusts...
Sorry if I caused some discomfort to you, it was not my intention
Thanks for your help guys!
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Whatever, it´s the only exahust I can do the "Spanish TUV" due to the complete european partnumber they have.
I´ve purchased the gr.a version (63mm middle and rear exahust system).
In the worst case, after do the TUV and incluide "an exahust system" in my car data card, I can put again my catback system. I love the sound of this, and I´ve listened some videos of Ibizas 1.8T with FMs exahust and it´s seems to have a weird sound, but I need to do the things as legal as possible...
I will keep you informed about the diameters of the FMS when I have it in my hands (I think it´s a little bit expensive if the quality is bad..)
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I found here in Spain a legal 200cpi cat with European legal homologation (comes with a paper with the specs and the information)
Respect of the turboback/catback exhaust, yesterday I was talking with a friend in Munich and find a brand called FMS (Friedrich Motorsport) that have few types of exhaust with ABE/EG/EC aproval, so it will be the best option.
Here in Spain, the main problem is, if you change anything in your car (even if it´s a specific piece for your car) you must do a legal homologacion (or special TÜV) for that piece by paying an engineer.
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Guys, I need help!
I need a full homologation of the car to pass the Spanish TUV and I have the next problems:
No cat at downpipe (solved I find one with E9 reference and technical homologation)
No valid catback, because mine’s not have any part number or reference, so, what type/brands of catback (of course legal with homologation project) do you have in your cars?
I was thinking in Milltek, but in their website I can see that their catback doesn’t have EC Aproval, but here in Spain if the catback have any partnumber I can do the proper homologation.
Any tips, please?
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Please remove the plastic pipe under the left headlight and place one out of Alu, f.e. from Forge. Therefore you have to cut one holder of the bumber, but ist works fine. The plastic's often break.
Yes I know, but first I want to fix the bumper’s fastenings because altough the bumper is new, they are defective and not fit well, so as soon as possible I get fixed it, I replace the upper intercooler pipe.
Following the topic, bumper is in his place again.
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Well, the crashbar is in the car!
At night, I”ll do the holes behind the license plate and when I need an extra airflow (at trackdays or similar) I only have to put off the plate but for daily use at publics roads, license plate will be in his place.
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i Manuel,
thank you for sharing your build, I really like it
No, thank you Robert for your help when I need it. I really apreciate your opinion
Rear axle bushes are stock? You absolutely need to go for SuperPro SPF2481K, it really makes a difference
(watch out: The bushes with 'outer' mark comes on the inner side of the mounting holes, because OE bushes from Ibiza are inverted compared to the Golf 4 plattform.)If I have to be honest, I had purchased it two years ago, but I´m to lazy to get down the rear axle, because that means do a complete rear bleed again..
However, I´m thinking to do the job this summer, maybe in holidays.
Maybe try EBC Yellowstuff (µ=~0,6) at the rear next time, adds some brake force on the rear, so it becomes more stable under hard braking, even in corners.
Ferodo DS2500 in the front is a good choice, but if you like a bit more bite and better feel for the slip limit of the front tires, try the Pagid RS29 (µ=~0,45).I have tried Yellow and Bluestuff in the Cupra with bad results in my local track/mountain roads, it´s possible due to the high temperatures in Spain, especially in spring/summer time. With this pads I get fadding very quickly, but with DS2500 everyting it´s perfect, but yes, I think I need more brake force in the rear, that's why, I thought to go for a DSUNO rear pads (Pagid it´s too expensive for my wallet )
Interesting. I just bought the Forge FMBSMP18T
I think, it´s a mandatory mod for a regular track/mountain road car. I will purchase the Forge too.
I just got new spacer rings for the dv adaptor, would you like to test it? (Keks=Cookie)
I really apreciate it, but I need to make some money first, I have just bought a ticket plane to Munich for the last week of July and I just spent the money that was left over
Easiest way: Buy a Polo 6R WRC oder Ibiza 6J/Audi A1 2.0TDI Airbox
Yes I know, but here in Spain it´s an impossible task to get a second hand one in good conditions. New-OEM ones are very expensive for the salaries of an average Spaniard, so as soon I get some money again, I will get some cookies again
For the moment, I will assemble-make the low-non cost mods that I have pending to do..
Stay tuned
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Yesterday I did this mod for an extra FMIc cooling.
8704A842-CDE7-467C-B14E-D538B0688CC4.jpeg
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FDA0E476-791A-4654-851B-CAE90B071FEB.jpegAlso painted in black again, but I haven’t got any pic...
I need to do 3 big holes behind the license plate, so, when I go to the track, I only have to put off the license plate to get the extra cooling.By the way, I need to check this improvment making some IAT logs, before that I have 51° at 1,5 bar boost pressure above 6000rpm with the Spain ambient temperatures
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Problem solved!
A friend helps me with a vacuum bleeder and it works perfectly, 3 minutes and the work is done.
In fact, I just bought a Motive Power Bleeder to have it in the future.
Next long-term project
I also bought an Ibiza/Polo intake manifold used unit from Ebay to do some research. My intention is to do some improvments in the plenum to get more-equal cylinder filling, because I think the angle of the throttle body respect the plenum is not the best for equal-flowing all the cylinders.As I get the improvments, will post the pics, but basically it´s about to copy an 034/SEM intake manifold, adapted to the Ibiza/Polo dimensions/brackets.
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I made myself a tool for this out of a water-bottle:
Auswahl_574.pngi drilled a hole into the bottle, shoved some break pipe into there that goes all the way down to the ground.
then i drilled a hole into the cap and fitted an air-valve from a wheel.got myself another cap for the brake fluid container and fitted another air-valve there, too - but without the internal valve.
everything sealed up nicely with glue and then i connected the brake-pipe to the brake-fluid cap with a hose.Filling the bottle with 0.25 - 0.5l of brake fluid and with a tire pressure gauge i can give pressure to the system.
Works perfectly, if you don't do to much pressure (the cap is not that tight-fitting, so there can be small leaks).
Thanks for this! My friend have the same home made tool and I have tried without results (at the moment qas good, but after some hours, when push the pedal, go to the floor again)Today I will try to do it with a vacuum tool in the slave cylinder bleeder and at least, if not works, reverse mode bleeding (refill with fluid trough the slave cylinder bleeder, because I think there is some air bubbles in the circuit, and do it like this, it’s easier put it out through the fuild reservoir.
Tell you if that’s works.
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Well, this weekend was time to change the gearbox fluid (easy work here) by this.
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I already had one (the bigger one) and I had to buy another two more just in case I need it.
Next work, a little brake bleeding using my special bleed tool.
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Last work, clutch bleeding (I’m go to explode at this point). Holy sh** do this. I have to stop because I get very angry, everytime I try, pedal to the floor or a bad pedal feeling (1/2 of the travel is dead)
I did not remember, but I did the same task a year ago, and in the end with the bleeding machine I managed to do it.
Some tips to do it manually?
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Small update of tonight (yes, today, at 9th of June)
Due at summer highs temperatures in Spain, I have decided to install Mocool coolant aditive. I have done adding 3/4 of distilled water to avoid corrosion in the coolant circuit, and 1/4 of G13 coolant fluid to keep a minimum of cleaning and lubricators properties.
If you do it only with G12/G13 coolant, it´s very probable that you don´t appreciate a lower coolant temps due to the high amounts of cleaning and lubricators agents that have the coolant fluids. (Not recommended in Germany due the lower ambient temperatures, especially if the car sleeps on the street)
After that, now my coolant tank have this color (very very stange)
It´s darker than the G12/G13 pink fluid, like the wine color, and smells so bad.